14K Rose Gold Diamond Ring, USSR, Kyiv, 1971

In the 1970s, in Kyiv—a city that at the time stood as one of the major artistic centers of the Soviet Union—this remarkable ring was created, a fine example of the subtle elegance characteristic of the Eastern European goldsmithing school during the late modernist era.

At the heart of the composition lies a 0.27 ct diamond with SI1 clarity and G color—a stone that, despite minor inclusions, retains excellent brilliance and luminosity. It is set in what is known as a butter setting, a mount shaped like gently parted petals of butter. Though less commonly used, this setting gained popularity in the latter half of the 20th century for its optical benefits: it enhances the stone’s luster while offering protection without interfering with its proportions.

This distinctive mount gives the impression that the diamond hovers above the band, aligning beautifully with the design language of its time—functional, yet not devoid of decorative flair. The band itself, crafted from warm rose gold, narrows slightly toward the center, drawing the eye naturally to the diamond.

Jewelry from the 1970s in Eastern Bloc countries, including the USSR, reflected the realities of material scarcity and ideological restraint. Instead of extravagance—an emphasis on craftsmanship and geometric clarity; instead of opulence—moderated luxury for the emerging middle class. Rings like this one emerged as a result—symbolic, enduring, and timeless.

This is a piece that unites discreet beauty with technical finesse, a now-rare form of stone setting, and the history of a region that, despite its limitations, found ways to create extraordinary things.