14K Gold, Signet Ring with an Old-Cut Diamond, 1960s/1980s, Warsaw

In the years when Warsaw — rebuilt from ruins — was transforming into a modern capital, the jewelry created in the city’s goldsmith workshops embodied a monumental elegance.

     
This ring, which could easily serve as a signet, is the quintessence of post-war modernist style: austere yet refined, practical yet full of expression.

The ring is crafted in 14K yellow gold (0.585) with a smooth, substantial surface that both adorns and strengthens its form. At its center sits an impressive 1.40 ct diamond — a stone cut in the classic old brilliant style, whose hand-faceted surfaces capture light in a deep and quiet way, characteristic of stones shaped before the era of modern proportions.

The setting — typical of the 1960s–80s — resembles a stylized crown or unfolding scales: the diamond is not elevated above the band, but deeply nestled within it, emphasizing solidity and protecting the stone from damage. This approach is both functional and aesthetic — it highlights the stone’s mass and underscores its presence.

The period from 1963 to 1986 was a time when Polish goldsmithing worked with limited materials but a very strong design identity. Forms were simplified but not without character. Jewelry was meant to be durable, practical, and at the same time, representational.

This Warsaw ring perfectly reflects the spirit of that era: it is jewelry made “for years to come,” often chosen by men as a signet for engagement or family heritage. Yet its proportions and form make it just as compelling as a unisex piece — provided one’s focus is not on the literal interpretation of gender in design, but on the clarity of expression.